The absence of findings dated from the mid-fourth to the mid-sixth centuries seems to attest to a long period of abandonment
of the building, probably caused by the earthquake in AD 363 and lasting until sometime after AD 551,
the date of the new seismic event that devastated Jerash.
To this period belong four folles of Anastasius I or Justin I, minted at Constantinople, bearing on the obverse
the profile portrait of the emperor and on the reverse the Greek letter M with a cross above and the mint mark CON beneath (Fig. 3.16).
The reorganization of the area in the Byzantine period led to a radical structural and functional transformation of
the building, on the ground floor of which a thermopolium was established (Fig. 3.17).
... The excavation has yielded some other complete
cooking-pots and the fragments of about 130 vessels of
the same type, scattered over the whole area. On the
bottom of one of these remained the residue of food
that had been contained within it.
Despite the variety of rim conformation, their shape,
arising from the repertoire of the Roman tradition,
shows homogeneous features, strictly related to their
specific function. The two-handled ribbed, almost
globular body has a rounded bottom, particularly
well-suited to fit the hearth embers and, together with
their thin walls, to make cooking much faster. The
thinness of the walls made these vessels too fragile for
long-term use, but judging from their massive
production and the large number thrown away, we can
assume that they were inexpensive. Their technical
features seem to indicate that many of them were
produced at the hippodrome kilns discovered by Ina
Kehrberg and Antony Ostrasz, who were active during
the Late Byzantine period
15.
The cooking ware retrieved also includes lids with
small holes for the steam vent and a large number of
frying pans, some with a coarse white-painted
decoration on the broad rim, showing that they were
used not only for food preparation in the kitchen, but
also as serving dishes (Fig. 3.38).
A total of sixty-five bronze coins, heavily oxidized and
almost illegible, were collected above the floor level
within the building. This number includes four isolated
folles, some small groups of three or four pieces found
near the benches, and four hoards of seven, eleven,
fourteen, and seventeen coins, most of which were
small in size. One of the hoards was found inside the
waste container on the east side of the room. The
manner and place in which it was concealed seem to
indicate that it was deposited by one of the occupants
of the structure for a reason that, considering its small
monetary value, remains unknown.
These coins might represent the savings or disposable
income of the occupants of the thermopolium, and
therefore their high concentration in this area could be
related to the activity of the premises, as well as the
presence of numerous Jerash Lamps, found intact and
with clear traces of use (Fig. 3.39)
16.
It is likely, even if not certain, that the final
abandonment of the complex was brought about by the
earthquake in AD 660, as the absence of Umayyad
occupational activity in the area seems to indicate.
However, it is not clear whether this absence could
rather be due to the several digs carried out in previous
years which, as we observed in the sanctuary’s
workshops, had heavily damaged the post-Byzantine
archaeological deposits.
In the case of Jerash, the comparitive reading of both
the finds and the structure itself, as well as the
architectural context in which it was built, allowed a
reliable interpretation of the building's archaeology
and function. In the absence of detailed indications on
both the architecture and the finds from other
thermopolia sites of this period, the information
obtained from such a reading could contribute to the
identification of coeval complexes of the same type.
The architectural features and location in the urban
framework of the Jerash thermopolium, as well as the
nature of the materials retrieved, are indeed in some
way typical and can thus provide useful indications to
identify the general function and structural
arrangement of similar buildings throughout the
Byzantine East for which less complete evidence either
survives or has been published.
As evidenced by literary sources and by depictions on
mosaics and reliefs, tabernae and thermopolia must
have existed in most towns of the Roman Empire.
17
For some of them, like those of Ostia and the Vesuvian
cities, the structural evidence is quite extensive,
although information related to the internal
arrangements of objects was not recorded.
18
Yet little or nothing was known about the taverns of
the Byzantine towns, particularly as regards the
Eastern Mediterranean regions.
Recent excavations carried out in Sardis, Sagalassos,
and Scythopolis, however, provided extensive
documentation on some buildings of this type dated
between the second half of the sixth and the first half
of the seventh centuries AD, whose structural features
were examined in the context of the finds evidence.
An important factor, common to all these complexes, is
their strategic position in the central area or
alongside the main streets of the city. At Sardis five
of the ‘Byzantine shops’ recognized as thermopolia
were located on both sides of the entrance to the
Bath-Gymnasium complex.
19 At Sagalassos five
interrelated rooms, with a kitchen, a space for
consuming meals, and some more private rooms, were
situated on one of the main urban squares.
20 At
Scythopolis six shops, interpreted as units for
preparing and selling food, were overlooking the Street
of the Monuments, the main pilgrim road which crossed
the city.
21
All these buildings were identified as taverns based on
the presence of specific equipment and fittings, such
as masonry benches, hearths, storage vats, ovens,
water supplies, and other artefacts indicative of their
function. Within one of the excavated taverns at
Sardis, a stone mortar placed in a corner of the room
was highlighted, along with a masonry platform,
similar to the one found in Jerash and, like this one,
located on the right side of the entrance.
Large deposits of animal bones, representing refuse
from the preparation and consumption of meals, were
retrieved from the contexts related to the occupation
of the taverns, mostly accumulated close to the areas
where the food was prepared.
The recovered materials, which include table and
kitchen vessels, glass bottles and goblets, storage
vessels, amphorae, and a large number of coins,
provided a complete framework of the objects
functional to the activity of a thermopolium and
allowed a reliable reconstruction of tastes and
standards of living of the local population between the
sixth and seventh centuries.
Footnotes
15 Kehrberg and Ostrasz 1997. On the pottery produced at the
hippodrome kilns, see Kehrberg 2009.
16 For a typology of the Jerash Lamps, see Kehrberg 2011.
17 On the Roman thermopolia, see Kleberg 1957; 1963; MacMahon
2003; Putzeys and Lavan 2007, with extensive bibliography on
the published buildings. Recently a thermopolium was unearthed
at Monte Iato (Sicily): Isler 2003, 828.
18 On the tabernae and thermopolia of Ostia, Pompeii, and
Herculaneum, see Girri 1956; Jashemski 1967; Packer 1978;
Hermansen 1981, 125–83; Pavolini 1986; Ellis 2004; MacMahon
2005.
19 On the shops of Sardis, see Crawford 1990; Russell 1993; Harris
2004; Rautman 2011.
20 Waelkens and others 2007; Putzeys and others 2008.
21 Agady and others 2002; Khamis 2007; Tsafrir 2009.